SHOWER THOUGHTS: TUDOR BLACK BAY 54

Tudor is giving real hopes for enthusiasts who are into classic sized watches. With their newest 2023 release, the 37mm Black Bay 54 model, there is now a smaller size alternative for a dive watch from a reputable brand. While the 37mm is not exactly a classic sized watch, Tudor seem to be one of the major brands - if not the only one - trying to bend the trajectory of the ever increasing watch case size for the diver segment.

good looks?

Old design elements. Vintage watch lovers will rejoice as this new model took inspiration either from the vintage Tudor Submariner 7922, or Rolex Submariner 6204, both released in 1954. By leveraging the design of an already established and iconic legendary diver watch, it would be hard to see any objection to the design elements of the Black Bay 54. Built as a diver tool watch, the design is mainly driven by purpose-built functionality. This includes legible markers, rotating bezel, chunky crown teeth, and of course - brush stainless steel case and bracelet.

Snowflake hands and gold indices. I have always been a big fan of the combination between gold accents on the dial (indices on the hour markers and minute rail) together with the snowflake hands, which first appear on the Black Bay 58. These small but crucial design element has allowed the Black Bay 54 to maintain the sportiness look re-created from older Submariner models, but also appear classy at the same time. A modern iteration executed perfectly.

who needs it?

People who think crown guards are overrated. Crown guards do add the sportiness feel to the watch, but some say it takes away a bit of the simple and plain design of the case. Of course most dive models do want to look sporty. But for an already established design like the Submariner, there is nothing left to prove. After all, it's the no crown guard models that make vintage watch collectors go crazy.

People who are looking for smaller sized dive watches. The first Submariner models created by Rolex and Tudor back in 1954 both have case sizes at 37mm. Fast forward to now, there aren't many option for modern dive watches under 40mm. If you don't consider Yachtmaster a dive watch, you would have to look beyond current Tudor and Rolex lineup to find one. This shows that there certainly is a gap in the diver watch for this size segment. Maybe one that Tudor is trying to capture through the release of the Black Bay 54.

who's gonna hate it?

People who think fake riveted bracelets serve no purpose. When the Black Bay 58 was released, there were mixed reception about the riveted bracelet and its non-functional purpose. That debate has not settled yet and will continue with the Black Bay 54. I think Tudor may be too into the romance of reissuing vintage watch models that they had to re-create the same vintage riveted bracelet design, despite serving no functional purpose.

Submariner owners. I'd like to guess that Submariner owners will probably look down on the Black Bay 54 for a couple of reasons. One being that it's not distinct enough to the Rolex Submariner model, and second due to its smaller case size - which are often under appreciated by the newer generation watch enthusiasts.

how about?

Oyster bracelets. It's not a controversial idea to replace the riveted bracelet with brushed oyster bracelet. It's the right thing to do and will enhance the sporty look . I'm quite sure I'm not the only one who would like to see this happening. Except that this will make the Black Bay 54 design look even more closer to the Rolex Submariner, which probably what Tudor doesn't want.

Date function. Love it or hate it, the never ending debate of date vs no date. I can imagine this affordable yet accessible model would attract the interest of folks outside the watch community. It's an easily recognizable design, well built, and from a good established brand. Fitting for a one-watch person, who probably would want a date function. It's just nice to have that option.